Hara Hara Sivane Arunachalane, Siva Om namah shivaya
There was joy and excitement in the air. This was going to be our first trip to Tiruvannamalai and our very first Girivalam. We wanted to arrive in Tiruvannamalai before 12:00 pm as we were told that the vehicular movement from outstation would be stopped after that. We drove in silence till in the distance I saw the Mountain, my dear Lord Arunachala, rising high above the ground and looking so majestic; energy surged through me like I had never experienced before. The land welcomed us with open arms. Everything seemed so familiar. It was unbelievable. As planned we arrived a day prior to Karthigai Deepam which is actually a 10 day feast in the town.
We managed to get some rest before we went for darshan at 3:00 pm and then the Girivalam was to started from 8.30 p.m. And could be completed anytime before 8:55 the next day. But by the time we finished with Darshan returned it was 9 p.m. As it was raining the whole day, I felt the clouds would blanket the moon and we will not be able to walk under its radiance. So, we had dinner and went to sleep, such that we could start Girivalam early the next day.
It was 5 in the morning. The drizzle ceased, the clouds cleared. We were half a dozen-- me, my husband, and a few of his cousins. We started bare foot towards the RajaGopuram, lit a camphor and signalled the beginning of the girivalam. We entered the main road and immediately got swept up in the moving crowd! Barefoot... walking on the road in front of the Ramana Ashram of the holy saint of Arunachala, Sri Ramana Maharshi. The road was basically closed to all vehicles but for government vehicles post staff from in and around the small town nearby. And of-cource the ambulance. With the Majestic Giri on the right and thoughts on Lord Arunachaleshwar we began. Initially, there was so much excitement, The newly asphalted roads were washed clean by the last night's rain. I could hardly contain myself. A couple of kilometers down, the sound of chants vibrated, we passed by saffron clad devotees singing praises of Lord Arunachaleswar, vendors shouting to get our attention, restaurants selling hot food, coffee shops, there was fruits, dates and fresh juice, the crowd swelled, it was a sea of humanity walking gracefully many with thoughts of Lord Arunachaleshwar. It was amazing that devotees from various walks of life were cherishing each moment and every step on this holy land.
A huge singboard showed the 12 zodic sign with the respective lingam of worship. We decided to pay visit to each lingam starting from Indra Lingam, Agni Lingam, Yama Lingam, Niruthi Lingam, Varuna Lingam, Vayu Lingam, Kubera Lingam and Esanya Lingam. There were many little shrines on the way. Chanting the name of Lord Shiva was sufficient. Large queues formed to get darshan of the lingams. The roads were so full that you could hardly see the road. The air was full of celebration. Everyone was walking, walking in the same direction... a wave of energy. At times were deviated and talking to each other on past experice but them were very soon put back on track chanting the Lord's name. The crowd was intense and ecstatic. All burning camphor and chanting the lords name. High energy filled the air.
We reached the Raja Gopuram at 11:45 a.m. Lit another camphor to mark the end of the Circumambulation.
This Girivalm happened on every full moon day of the month. For us it was a special one as we fast and continued to celebrate the Karthigai Deepam too. Krittika Deepam occurs annually in the lunar month of Kartika, which occurs in November/December, on the last day of the 10-day festival called Brahmotsavam.
Preparations for this day begins one month in advance with the local government and temple authorities. Earlier people from far off place would tend for this particular even for about 10 days. Early on a previous morning, puja was performed on the Deepam Cauldron pot, with Rukku, the Temple elephant and a cow from the Temple goshala, in attendance. Once the puja was completed, the Cauldron was carried out of the Temple to the hill top. It was 4:30 am on the 17th November, 2013, and the main sanctum sanctorum of the massive Tiruvannamalai Siva temple in Tamil Nadu was packed with souls who have been waiting all night for this moment.
The chief priest finished a simple ritual called bharani deepam and now ceremoniously waves a huge camphor flame in the direction of nearby Arunachala mountain. Finally, he touches the flame he is holding to the wicks of five huge, earthen, ghee-filled pots, representing the sacred elements earth, air, fire, water and ether. As these five flames loom up with red-yellow light, the famous, one-day, South Indian festival of Krittika Dipam officially begins. A single flame is then taken from the pots and kept burning in the Temple throughout the day as a symbol of the merging of manifestation back into God, the one source of all. This single flame is referred to as the Bharani Deepam. We watched the entire episode live on the TV channel, as it would be a herculean task to visit temple on this day.
Town's people and pilgrims from far afield, are climbing Arunachala some in order to secure a good viewing point for the evening's lighting of the 2013 Deepam cauldron, others so that they can personally deliver their ghee offerings to the top of Arunachala and some to just touch the cauldron that will hold the flame that will be lit that evening. From the town, the stream of people climbing up the slopes of Arunachala look like a line of tiny ants. There are many routes to climb the hill top. Those who climbed the Hill, from the Temple at the Virupaksha side know only too well of the rough, uneven path. Progress is slow, but progress is certain. Devotees carry containers of ghee and large pots of thick, braided cloth wicks to the top of Arunachala mountain.
We watched all this from the terrace of the house. While the ladies of the family were busy preparing for the grand feast late in the evening.
All across south India, millions of bonfires are lit on hills and in temples on Krittika Deepam. But nowhere is this festival celebrated like it is at Tiruvannamalai. Here it is unique. By 5:00 in the evening, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, is packed. People are grabbing seats to observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Hindu Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara. The devotees are constantly moving and adjusting their positions to get a better view and to make way for still more people pouring in. At approximately 6:00 in the evening, a sacred fire is lit on top of the 2,668 foot Arunachala mountain to symbolize the merging of all manifest existence back into the one source of all things. It is said that those who witness this sacred ceremony personally receive the blessings of Siva and Parvati. All of the traditional temple rituals that are performed during Brahmotsavam create a spiritual fervency that culminate with great power on Krittika Deepam as a grand congregation of devotees, holy men, officials, police personnel and media squeeze together, shoulder to shoulder, to witness the festival's magnificent consummation.
Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendor. Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame.
The timing is perfectly synchronized. People at the terence of their house too lit camphor in a cauldron and children start with firework. When that flame is seen by the thousands of devotees below, the entire countryside explodes with flashing luminescence. Bonfires, lamps, neon lights and fireworks light the night like day as a surging, thronging, emotionally charged mass of devotees chant, "Arunachala Siva," "Annamalai” and "Annamalai Harohara”. The very sight of the Krittika Deepam is magical. It brings an inexplicable joy. We were ecstatic, mesmerized by the light.
As the day waned into dusk and night begins to darken the sky, we could still see pilgrims moving around. I stood motionless at the base of Arunachala mountain, with anticipation for the next Deepam too, to worship God Siva as an infinite pillar of light. Long-time pilgrims assert that, even years later, the very thought of an otherworldly moment like this recreates it, just as if it is happening fresh and new.
The moon was shining with its full glory. I felt so much gratitude for Annamalaiyar
